Fashion Nerds

Ann Lowe

  • Bridal wear
  • Embellished formal gowns

Ann Lowe built formal gowns from the inside out, joining carefully engineered support to delicate floral handwork. Her custom dressmaking was central to American society dressing even when its maker was denied equal recognition.

Portrait of Ann Lowe
Photographer unidentified; Ann Lowe in her workroom · Non-free photograph; Wikipedia fair-use record (not an open license)

Five looks to know

Evening dress — Ann Lowe, ca. 1960

Collection selection

Evening dress

ca. 1960

A fitted, embellished bodice opens into a full gray skirt. Pale decorative bands continue across the skirt, linking its airy outer layers to the densely ornamented top. The Met records nylon, metallic thread and silk.

The Metropolitan Museum of Art
Evening ensemble — Ann Lowe, ca. 1966

Collection selection

Evening ensemble

ca. 1966 · The Met collection

Silk, cotton.

The Metropolitan Museum of Art
Evening dress — Ann Lowe, ca. 1968

Collection selection

Evening dress

ca. 1968 · The Met collection

Silk.

The Metropolitan Museum of Art
Evening dress — Ann Lowe, 1956

Collection selection

Evening dress

1956 · The Met collection

Silk, cotton, glass, synthetic fiber.

The Metropolitan Museum of Art
Evening dress — Ann Lowe, 1964

Collection selection

Evening dress

1964 · The Met collection

Silk, ostrich feathers.

The Metropolitan Museum of Art

Archive pieces, grouped by date

1 piece

ca. 1960

1 piece · Season not recorded

About Ann Lowe

Lowe learned dressmaking from her mother and grandmother. Her mature gowns could contain inset bustiers, padding and waist stays beneath elaborate surfaces: the interior gave their full skirts and fitted bodices a controlled line. Flowers were part of a highly skilled decorative practice, not a substitute for construction.

She designed Jacqueline Bouvier Kennedy’s wedding dress in 1953. A pipe burst in her workroom ten days before the wedding, forcing her to remake ten gowns, including the bride’s, at a loss. She received no public press credit as the designer at the time. Racial exclusion also affected the business itself: the Met’s account explains that white financial partners helped make renting an elite New York salon possible for a Black woman.