Fashion Nerds

Styles

Follow a look across the decades.

Relaxed menswear ensemble, Giorgio Armani, Spring/summer 1994

Armani’s relaxed tailoring

Attention to cloth and construction · Soft jackets and fluid trousers · Tailoring across men’s and women’s dress

Look 6, Fenty x Puma, spring/summer 2017

Athleisure

Sportswear in everyday dress · Leggings and track pants · Sneakers and flexible layers

Look 6, Chloé, spring/summer 2005

Boho chic

Loose, layered silhouettes · Frills and vintage references · Relaxed accessories

Skirt suit, Chanel, ca. 1956

Chanel suit

Softly structured jacket · Matching skirt · Tweed and neat trim

Look 7, Batsheva, spring/summer 2021

Cottagecore

Prairie-dress shapes · Gathered sleeves and collars · Florals and rural references

Asymmetric dark tailored jacket retaining one sleeve and lapel, with the opposite shoulder opened to reveal a red layer.

Deconstruction

Exposed or rearranged construction · Altered scale and proportion · Reworking familiar garments

Evening dress, Stephen Burrows, ca. 1973

Disco

Fluid, mobile fabrics · Draped or asymmetric necklines · Shine and expressive colour

Warrior Queen jacket, Pam Hogg, Autumn/winter 1988

Fetish fashion

Leather, rubber and corsetry · Straps, studs and chains · Erotic codes in outerwear

Evening dress, Edward Molyneux, 1926–27

Flapper

Dropped waist · Straight silhouette · Shorter skirts

Look 3, Moncler 2 1952, fall/winter 2022–23 menswear

Gorpcore

Outdoor layers · Puffers and cargo details · Hiking-inspired footwear

Skeleton-print skirt suit, Sarah Whitworth for New Masters, 1983

Goth

Dark, theatrical styling · Lace, velvet and fishnet · Macabre and historical imagery

Ensemble, Perry Ellis, spring/summer 1993

Grunge

Flannel and worn-denim references · Loose, mismatched layers · Dresses with rugged styling

New Funk outfit worn by Hashimoto Suguru, New Funk Inc.; selected and worn by Hashimoto Suguru, Made 2000; worn about 2000–02

Harajuku street style

Personal mixes and layering · Secondhand and handmade clothing · Independent labels and substyles

Double-breasted bomber jacket, Dapper Dan of Harlem, 1987

Hip-hop

Athletic and casual foundations · Distinctive logos and customization · Expressive styling and accessories

Jennifer Lopez in a cropped white top, low-slung trousers, sparkling belt and embellished bandana, photographed with Sean Combs in 2000.

Hip-hop style

Oversized casualwear · Sportswear and sneakers · Bold jewelry and branding

Knitted Circle, Zandra Rhodes, 1969

Hippie

Loose, flowing shapes · Handmade and vintage influences · Richly patterned textiles

Yale students leaving a university building, Photographer and clothing makers not identified in the exhibition caption, 1950s

Ivy League style

Natural-shouldered jackets · Button-down shirts · Chinos and loafers

Dress, Miyake Design Studio, 1989

Japanese avant-garde

Unconventional volume · Asymmetry and altered structure · Experimental relationships between cloth and body

Look 1, Louis Vuitton with Supreme, fall/winter 2017–18 menswear

Luxury streetwear

Streetwear forms · Graphic logos · Fashion and sports-brand collaborations

Look 48, Gucci, fall/winter 2017–18

Maximalism

Mixed patterns · Rich ornament · Eclectic layers and accessories

Evening dress, Calvin Klein, Inc., fall/winter 1996–97

Minimalism

Reduced ornament · Clear, controlled silhouettes · Emphasis on cut and material

Dress, Mary Quant, ca. 1966

Mod

Short, simple silhouettes · Graphic colour and contrast · Slim, clean lines

Bar, House of Dior, Spring/Summer 1947

New Look

Soft shoulders · Nipped waist · Emphasized hips and full skirts

Pirate, Vivienne Westwood, 1981

New Romantic

Billowing shirts and sleeves · Historical costume references · Theatrical proportions

Look 14, And Re Walker, spring/summer 2015

Normcore

Ordinary wardrobe staples · Understated styling · Practical casual shoes

Striped double-breasted corduroy suit, Mr Fish, About 1968

Peacock Revolution

Vivid prints and rich textures · Decorative shirts and ties · Expressive men’s tailoring

Suit, Mugler, 1986

Power dressing

Emphatic shoulders · Confident, coordinated tailoring · Professional presence

Plaid wool suit, Perry Ellis Sportswear Inc., Fall/winter 1981–82

Preppy

Blazers and button-down shirts · Polo shirts and knit sweaters · Plaid collegiate separates

Ensemble, Seditionaries, ca. 1977

Punk

Rips and deliberate damage · Straps, zips and metal hardware · Provocative graphic statements

Look 14, The Row, fall/winter 2023–24

Quiet luxury

Muted palettes · Subtle branding · Polished tailoring and layers

Fashion Rave ensemble, Rifat Özbek, 1990 design; remade 1994

Rave

Clothes for dancing · Sportswear and trainers · Smiley, fluorescent and metallic accents

Sack dress, House of Balenciaga, 1957–1958

Sack dress

Unfitted waist · Shape suspended from shoulders · Simple outer line

Keenan Milton and Aaron Meza in Los Angeles, Photograph by Mike Blabac; clothing makers undocumented, 1998

Skate style

Loose trousers and graphic tees · Durable skate shoes · Skater-made videos and graphics

Ensemble, Pierre Cardin, 1967

Space Age

Geometric construction · Futuristic accessories · White, silver and modern materials

Day ensemble, Chanel, c. 1928

Sportswear

Easy movement · Knitted fabrics · Coordinated separates

Teddy boys on a corner, Southam Street, Clothing makers unrecorded; photograph by Roger Mayne, 6 May 1956 (photograph)

Teddy boy

Long tailored jackets with velvet collars · Narrow trousers · Greased quiffs

Jennifer Lopez in Juicy Couture, Juicy Couture, 2001

Y2K

Low-rise waists · Cropped tops · Shine and visible branding

Miu Miu — Spring 2022, Look 9, Miu Miu, Spring/summer 2022

Y2K revival

Low-rise waists · Micro miniskirts and cropped tops · Early-2000s nostalgia and embellishment

Zoot suit, Unidentified maker, United States, 1940–42

Zoot suit

Long, broad-shouldered jackets · High-waisted pegged trousers · Swing-era self-expression