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1990s
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Deconstruction

A familiar garment could become strange when its structure changed. Margiela and Demeulemeester made assembly, exposure and asymmetry part of how clothing communicates.

Exposed or rearranged constructionAltered scale and proportionReworking familiar garments

About Deconstruction

Deconstruction makes a garment’s assembly part of what the wearer and viewer notice. Exposed interiors, unfinished edges, changed scale and rearranged familiar forms can all question the expected finished object. Martin Margiela made such experiments central to his practice. Ann Demeulemeester’s 1996–97 ensemble here offers a specific variation: one side retains a dark jacket sleeve and lapel while the opposite shoulder opens to reveal a red layer. The familiar tailored jacket is visibly reorganized; its dark color alone is not what connects it to this category.

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READ FURTHER

The Museum at FIT: Fashion in the NinetiesPalais Galliera: Margiela/Galliera 1989–2009MoMu: Fashion from the MoMu CollectionThe Met: Margiela Jacket,1990–91The Met: Ann Demeulemeester ensemble, 1996–97
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