
Warrior Queen jacket
Pam Hogg · Autumn/winter 1988
Leather, rubber and conspicuous hardware connected erotic dress with club style. Their movement into fashion depended on both subcultural use and designers’ reinterpretations.

Pam Hogg · Autumn/winter 1988
Fetish fashion brought the visual codes of bondage and erotic dress into clubwear and designer fashion. Leather, rubber, corsetry, straps, studs and chains could dramatize power, restriction or exposure. In 1980s London, designers including Pam Hogg and Vivienne Westwood moved these references between independent shops, clubs and the catwalk. The V&A treats Fetish as a distinct part of the period’s club culture. Its history intersects with punk and queer nightlife, while remaining a specific vocabulary of materials, hardware and bodily display.
Counterculture catsuits and theatrical couture