Fashion Nerds

Mali, Côte d’Ivoire and France

Chris Seydou

  • Bògòlanfini textiles
  • Contemporary tailoring

Chris Seydou, born Seydou Nourou Doumbia in Mali, helped bring African textile traditions into international designer fashion. After establishing his career in West Africa, he moved to Paris in the early 1970s and worked with leading fashion houses.

Five looks to know

Patterned skirt and jacket ensemble — Chris Seydou, about 1990

Collection selection

Patterned skirt and jacket ensemble

about 1990

Nabil Zorkot’s photograph shows a patterned cropped jacket and short skirt styled with a fitted pale top. The NGV dates the outfit to about 1990; its season and exact textile composition are not documented in the caption.

© Nabil Zorkot; courtesy Victoria and Albert Museum, London
Evening dress with a patterned halter bodice — Chris Seydou, 1983

Collection selection

Evening dress with a patterned halter bodice

1983

A patterned halter bodice meets a long dark pleated skirt. The installation photograph shows the bodice and much of the skirt, with the hem cropped.

Installation photograph published by Laura McLaws Helms / Sighs & Whispers; Africa Fashion, Victoria and Albert Museum. Individual photographer not separately stated.
Pink and black dress — Chris Seydou, Late 1970s

Collection selection

Pink and black dress

Late 1970s

A loose pink upper section and deep neckline contrast with a narrow black skirt. The museum display records synthetic taffeta and velvet.

Installation photograph published by Laura McLaws Helms / Sighs & Whispers; Africa Fashion, Victoria and Albert Museum. Individual photographer not separately stated.
Bògòlanfini skirt suit — left mannequin — Chris Seydou, 1992

Collection selection

Bògòlanfini skirt suit — left mannequin

1992

The left mannequin wears a pale jacket with patterned collar and cuffs above a matching patterned skirt, adapting bògòlanfini to a tailored suit.

Installation photograph published by Laura McLaws Helms / Sighs & Whispers; Africa Fashion, Victoria and Albert Museum. Individual photographer not separately stated.
Cream trouser suit with dark appliqué — Chris Seydou, 1992

Collection selection

Cream trouser suit with dark appliqué

1992

Dark appliqué spreads across the cream jacket above slim trousers, translating a bògòlanfini-inspired pattern into a new surface technique.

Installation photograph published by Laura McLaws Helms / Sighs & Whispers; Africa Fashion, Victoria and Albert Museum. Individual photographer not separately stated.

Archive pieces, grouped by date

1 piece

about 1990

1 piece · Season not recorded

About Chris Seydou

He became especially associated with bògòlanfini, transforming the Malian cloth into tailored jackets, short skirts and other contemporary shapes. Returning to Mali in 1990, he continued to connect local making with an international clientele, demonstrating that textile heritage could generate new fashion rather than simply preserve old forms.