Fashion Nerds

House of Paquin

  • Paris couture
  • Embroidered daywear

The House of Paquin grew from the Paris business established by Jeanne and Isidore Paquin in the 1890s. Jeanne became one of the most influential women in couture, combining inventive clothes with an international understanding of fashion publicity and retail.

Portrait of Jeanne Paquin
André Taponier, c. 1915 · Public domain

Five looks to know

Embroidered day dress — House of Paquin, c. 1923–24

Collection selection

Embroidered day dress

c. 1923–24 · Season not documented

Geometric embroidery and small mirrors enliven the straight silhouette. This dress dates to Madeleine Wallis’s leadership, after Jeanne Paquin retired.

Palais Galliera / Paris Musées
Pale embellished dress with a train — House of Paquin, 1909

Collection selection

Pale embellished dress with a train

1909; season not separately documented

A light skirt flows into a decorated train beneath the fitted bodice.

The Metropolitan Museum of Art; Gift of Art Worker's Club, 1945
Pink and black opera coat — House of Paquin, 1912

Collection selection

Pink and black opera coat

1912; season not separately documented

Vivid pink silk and black velvet enlarge the dramatic effect of an evening outer layer.

The Metropolitan Museum of Art; Gift of Mrs. Edwin Stewart Wheeler, 1956
Floral ball gown — House of Paquin, spring/summer 1901

Collection selection

Floral ball gown

spring/summer 1901

A broad floral skirt and trailing hem express the scale of formal dress at the beginning of the twentieth century.

The Metropolitan Museum of Art; Gift of Mr. Cornelius Vanderbilt and Mrs. Robert L. Stevens, 1953
Gold evening dress with rose accents — House of Paquin, spring/summer 1912

Collection selection

Gold evening dress with rose accents

spring/summer 1912

Large rose decorations mark the high waist of a pale gold gown.

The Metropolitan Museum of Art; Brooklyn Museum Costume Collection at The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Gift of the Brooklyn Museum, 2009; Gift of Mrs. Harry T. Peters, 1962

Collections & archive pieces

1 collections represented · 1 piece

Season not documented

1 piece

About House of Paquin

The house continued after her retirement in 1920 under a succession of designers, closing in 1956. Its later work should therefore be credited to the appropriate creative leadership. A beaded day dress of about 1923–24 belongs to Madeleine Wallis’s period and demonstrates the continuing importance of skilled embroidery within the house.