Evening dress
Jean Dessès · fall/winter 1953–54
Jean Dessès
- Pleated silk gowns
- Draped eveningwear
Jean Dessès began designing for Maison Jane in 1925 and opened his own couture house in 1937. He became especially recognized after the Second World War for pleated and draped silk evening gowns.
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Collection selection
Evening dress
fall/winter 1953–54
Dessès used sheer silk and elaborate drapery to soften the expansive proportions of this fall/winter 1953–54 gown. The Met identifies an influence from 1860s ball gowns in its swagged skirt. The contrast between a close bodice and swelling, layered fabric demonstrates how lightweight textiles can produce considerable volume.
© 2019 Nicholas Alan Cope; Promised Gift of Sandy Schreier
Collection selection
Evening dress
ca. 1955
Woven strips of chiffon form the bodice of Dessès's circa-1955 gown before opening into a full skirt supported by petticoats. The Met identifies loose gathered straps and a draped neckline as characteristic details. The silk garment combines a strongly defined waist with a deliberately soft upper edge.
The Metropolitan Museum of Art; Brooklyn Museum Costume Collection at The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Gift of the Brooklyn Museum, 2009; Gift of Mary Sefton Thomas, 1986
Collection selection
Silhouette
Spring-Summer 1951 · V&A collection
Silk chiffon.
© Victoria and Albert Museum, London
Collection selection
Evening dress
ca. 1953 · V&A collection
Pleated silk chiffon with integral boning.
© Victoria and Albert Museum, London
Collection selection
Evening dress
1954-1955 · V&A collection
Silk chiffon and lace.
© Victoria and Albert Museum, LondonCollections & archive pieces
1 collections represented · 2 piecesfall/winter 1953–54
1 piece
ca. 1955
1 piece · Season not recorded
Evening dress
Jean Dessès · ca. 1955
About Jean Dessès
The Met emphasizes his ability to transform delicate textiles into varied forms, from historical ball-gown volume to woven chiffon bodices and gently gathered necklines.