Fashion Nerds

John Galliano

  • Historical couture
  • Theatrical draping

John Galliano recombined historical dressmaking ideas into expressive contemporary fashion. The Met connects his streamlined lace eveningwear to Madeleine Vionnet and his spiraling Dior taffeta gown to 1930s silhouettes and René Gruau’s illustrations.

Portrait of John Galliano
SALLIANCE · CC BY 3.0

Five looks to know

Evening dress — John Galliano, spring/summer 1999

Collection selection

Evening dress

spring/summer 1999

Galliano drew on the streamlined dresses of Madeleine Vionnet, shaping this transparent lace garment with relatively few darts and seams. The Met emphasizes how its body-skimming construction recalls the 1920s and 1930s. Omitting an opaque slip makes that historical reference more revealing, transforming an earlier eveningwear vocabulary through exposure.

The Metropolitan Museum of Art
Evening dress — John Galliano, spring/summer 2000

Collection selection

Evening dress

Hobo collection · spring/summer 2000

Four parallel panels of changeable silk taffeta spiral from neckline to train, each panel longer than the last. Cut on the bias, they cling to the body before projecting outward. The Met connects this Dior gown to both 1930s silhouettes and René Gruau’s dynamic fashion illustrations of the 1950s.

The Metropolitan Museum of Art
Fallen Angels — John Galliano, 1985-86

Collection selection

Fallen Angels

1985-86 · V&A collection

Cotton muslin.

© Victoria and Albert Museum, London
Seashell — John Galliano, 1987-88

Collection selection

Seashell

1987-88 · V&A collection

Bias cut organdie with a boned bodice and cotton sash.

© Victoria and Albert Museum, London
The Baby Maker — John Galliano, late 1996

Collection selection

The Baby Maker

late 1996 · V&A collection

intarsia work on satin-back crêpe .

© Victoria and Albert Museum, London

Collections & archive pieces

2 collections represented · 2 pieces

spring/summer 1999

1 piece

Hobo collection · spring/summer 2000

1 piece

About John Galliano

In these garments, the cut and motion of fabric carry the historical reference, allowing an earlier visual language to become a new theatrical silhouette.