Fashion Nerds

Madame Grès

  • Pleating
  • Sculptural draping

Madame Grès built sculptural evening dresses by manipulating fabric rather than simply decorating a finished silhouette. In the museum examples here, silk runs vertically through the garment, changing from loose skirt folds to tight pleats, twists and shaped bands above the waist.

Official house website
Portrait of Madame Grès
Irving Penn, Vogue, September 15, 1964 / Condé Nast Archive · Copyright; see source for usage terms

Five looks to know

Evening dress — Madame Grès, fall/winter 1954–55

Collection selection

Evening dress

fall/winter 1954–55

Grès shaped this fall/winter 1954–55 evening dress from silk jersey panels running vertically through the garment. The Met describes loose folds below the waist tightening into intricate pleating above it. Its one-shouldered form demonstrates how draping and carefully controlled gathers could create structure while preserving the fabric's apparent fluidity.

The Metropolitan Museum of Art
Evening dress — Madame Grès, 1958

Collection selection

Evening dress

1958

Grès conceived this 1958 gown as a continuous fabric cylinder, adding only a small triangle beneath the arm. The Met describes how close tucks suggest a waist seam while allowing the lower fabric to open into fluid folds. Twists at the neckline complete a garment whose sculptural effect comes from manipulating the same continuous material.

The Metropolitan Museum of Art
Evening dress — Madame Grès, ca. 1950

Collection selection

Evening dress

ca. 1950 · V&A collection

Silk taffeta lined with silk organza, and boned.

© Victoria and Albert Museum, London
Afternoon dress — Madame Grès, 1957-1959

Collection selection

Afternoon dress

1957-1959 · V&A collection

Draped jersey, silk and wool.

©Victoria and Albert Museum, London/ Madame Grès
Evening dress — Madame Grès, 1971

Collection selection

Evening dress

1971 · V&A collection

Pleated jersey, silk crepeline, boned, wired brassiere, silk crêpe, grosgrain, machine and hand stitched.

© Victoria and Albert Museum, London

Collections & archive pieces

1 collections represented · 2 pieces

fall/winter 1954–55

1 piece

1958

1 piece · Season not recorded

About Madame Grès

Her method makes continuity and controlled draping central to both the construction and the appearance of dress.