Fashion Nerds

Pierre Balmain

  • Postwar couture
  • Embroidered eveningwear

Pierre Balmain opened his own house in 1945 after working with Edward Molyneux and Lucien Lelong. The Met places him among the major designers of the fitted postwar silhouette.

Official house website

Five looks to know

Evening dress — Pierre Balmain, 1953

Collection selection

Evening dress

1953

Two scales of floral embroidery cover Balmain's 1953 evening dress: fine trailing flowers and larger open blooms. The Met compares the latter with motifs in glazed tiles and cloisonné enamel. Silk, nylon, metallic embroidery and sequins support a design in which ornament remains concentrated around a clearly shaped body.

The Metropolitan Museum of Art; Gift of Jean Sinclair Tailer, 1964
Evening dress — Pierre Balmain, 1953

Collection selection

Evening dress

1953

This Balmain evening dress from 1953 combines a dark, closely shaped body with pale ornamental areas and dramatic fabric at the sides. The Met records silk and rhinestones. Its discussion places Balmain among the designers who developed the fitted postwar silhouette with particular attention to fine detail.

The Metropolitan Museum of Art; Brooklyn Museum Costume Collection at The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Gift of the Brooklyn Museum, 2009; Gift of Mrs. Oscar Hammerstein II, 1956
Brocéliante — Pierre Balmain, 1954

Collection selection

Brocéliante

1954 · V&A collection

Brocaded silk satin with metal thread, hand-painted, appliquéd, and trimmed with satin and ribbons, and cotton net and boned corset.

© Victoria and Albert Museum, London
Boston — Pierre Balmain, 1957

Collection selection

Boston

1957 · V&A collection

©Victoria and Albert Museum, London/Pierre Balmain
Louveciennes — Pierre Balmain, 1957

Collection selection

Louveciennes

1957 · V&A collection

Printed silk, pleated and boned, with appliqué decoration, net and nylon.

© Victoria and Albert Museum, London

Archive pieces, grouped by date

2 pieces

1953

2 pieces · Season not recorded

About Pierre Balmain

His 1953 evening dresses in this selection combine tightly organized proportions with elaborate ornament, including floral embroidery, reflective details and carefully balanced dark and pale surfaces.