Fashion Nerds

Valentina

  • Bias draping
  • Theatrical costume

Valentina combined exacting construction with an outwardly simple line. The Met describes a blouse cut from a single piece of faille and shaped with darts, as well as her accomplished use of bias drapery.

Portrait of Valentina
Irving Penn / Condé Nast Publications · Non-free photograph; Wikipedia fair-use record (not an open license)

Five looks to know

Evening dress — Valentina, 1939

Collection selection

Evening dress

1939

Valentina designed this 1939 dress for Katharine Cornell to wear in the Broadway production No Time for Comedy. The Met connects its long, draped silhouette with medieval references and identifies the use of bias cutting. It demonstrates the close relationship between her fashion practice and clothing for performers.

The Metropolitan Museum of Art; Brooklyn Museum Costume Collection at The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Gift of the Brooklyn Museum, 2009; Gift of the Museum of the City of New York, 1964
Evening dress — Valentina, ca. 1954

Collection selection

Evening dress

ca. 1954

Valentina cut the blouse of this circa-1954 evening ensemble from a single piece of faille, shaping it with darts. The Met emphasizes the complexity behind its apparently simple construction. A dark upper body and pale, full skirt make its disciplined waist and contrasting proportions particularly clear.

The Metropolitan Museum of Art; Brooklyn Museum Costume Collection at The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Gift of the Brooklyn Museum, 2009; Gift of Igor Kamlukin, 1996
Coat — Valentina, 1943

Collection selection

Coat

1943 · V&A collection

Woven silk, button and metal hook and eye fastenings.

©Victoria and Albert Museum, London/Valentina
Evening dress — Valentina, ca. 1934

Collection selection

Evening dress

ca. 1934 · The Met collection

Silk.

The Metropolitan Museum of Art
Cape — Valentina, 1935–45

Collection selection

Cape

1935–45 · The Met collection

Wool, silk.

The Metropolitan Museum of Art

Archive pieces, grouped by date

2 pieces

1939

1 piece · Season not recorded

ca. 1954

1 piece · Season not recorded

About Valentina

Her work also crossed into theater: the 1939 dress included here was designed for Katharine Cornell's performance in No Time for Comedy.