Fashion Nerds

Zelda Wynn Valdes

  • Tailored eveningwear
  • Performance costume
  • Body-conscious glamour

Zelda Wynn Valdes opened her New York business, Zelda Wynn, in 1948 after years developing her dressmaking and tailoring skills. Her clients included Josephine Baker and Eartha Kitt.

Five looks to know

Beaded gown for Eartha Kitt — Zelda Wynn Valdes, ca. 1955

Collection selection

Beaded gown for Eartha Kitt

ca. 1955

A one-shoulder silk gown combines bird motifs, seed beads and rhinestones. The separately displayed green shoes are by Beth Levine for Herbert Levine, not Valdes.

Collection of the Smithsonian NMAAHC, Gift of the Black Fashion Museum founded by Lois K. Alexander-Lane
Pink beaded mermaid gown worn by Joyce Bryant — Zelda Wynn Valdes, Photographed 1954

Collection selection

Pink beaded mermaid gown worn by Joyce Bryant

Joyce Bryant performance wardrobe — photographed 1954

Beading follows the close-fitting torso before the pink skirt flares at the knees, illustrating Valdes’s sculpted stage silhouette.

Philippe Halsman, 1954 / © Philippe Halsman Estate 2024, via The Metropolitan Museum of Art
Black gown with white pleated panels — right photograph — Zelda Wynn Valdes, Photographed 1953

Collection selection

Black gown with white pleated panels — right photograph

Joyce Bryant performance wardrobe — photographed 1953

The right-hand photograph shows a dark, low-cut gown with white pleated side panels, combining a narrow torso with expansive movement below.

Carl Van Vechten, 1953 / courtesy Yale University, via The Metropolitan Museum of Art
Floral dress fitted on Eartha Kitt — Zelda Wynn Valdes, Photographed 1952

Collection selection

Floral dress fitted on Eartha Kitt

Eartha Kitt wardrobe — photographed 1952

Gordon Parks photographed Valdes fitting this floral dress on Eartha Kitt, documenting the relationship between designer, performer and made-to-measure garment.

Gordon Parks, 1952 / Gordon Parks–The LIFE Picture Collection–Shutterstock, via The Metropolitan Museum of Art
Black satin evening gown with beadwork — Zelda Wynn Valdes, Date not stated

Collection selection

Black satin evening gown with beadwork

Date not stated · Date and season not documented

This surviving labeled gown has a peaked neckline and seed-and-bugle-bead decoration, documented by the vintage dealer who recovered it.

Courtesy Very Breezy, via Harper’s Bazaar

Archive pieces, grouped by date

1 piece

ca. 1955

1 piece · Season not recorded

About Zelda Wynn Valdes

She led the New York chapter of the National Association of Fashion and Accessories Designers and later designed costumes for Dance Theatre of Harlem.