Fashion Nerds

Gilbert Adrian

  • Hollywood costume
  • American ready-to-wear

Gilbert Adrian brought the visual confidence of Hollywood costume to American fashion. After extensive film work, he developed a custom salon and ready-to-wear business in the 1940s.

Portrait of Gilbert Adrian
Philippe Halsman · Public domain

Five looks to know

Evening ensemble — Gilbert Adrian, 1945

Collection selection

Evening ensemble

Modern Museum · 1945

This silk evening ensemble belonged to Adrian's Modern Museum collection and appeared among the garments shown when he received the 1945 American Fashion Critics Award. The Met connects its palette to Cubism and its interlocking shapes to modern art. A long coordinated outer layer carries the composition beyond the dress itself.

The Metropolitan Museum of Art
Roan Stallion — Gilbert Adrian, 1945

Collection selection

Roan Stallion

1945

Adrian painted the rearing horse directly onto this silk evening dress. The Met contrasts that method with his usual practice of drawing on a muslin toile before translating lines into intricate fabric insets. The large figurative image makes the entire length of the gown function as a painted surface.

The Metropolitan Museum of Art
Joan Crawford in the Letty Lynton gown — Gilbert Adrian, 1932

Collection selection

Joan Crawford in the Letty Lynton gown

Letty Lynton (film), 1932

Adrian’s white organdie gown for Joan Crawford in Letty Lynton (1932) puts enormous, fluttering sleeves above a close waist and full skirt. The contrast matters: Hollywood glamour could be romantic and expansive as well as slinky. Widely copied versions carried the screen costume into ordinary wardrobes; this publicity photograph shows Crawford in the original design.

Unknown photographer, 1932 publicity photograph; via Wikimedia Commons
Evening dress — Gilbert Adrian, 1946

Collection selection

Evening dress

1946 · The Met collection

Rayon, glass, plastic (cellulose acetate).

Paul Westlake / The Metropolitan Museum of Art
Evening dress — Gilbert Adrian, 1944

Collection selection

Evening dress

1944 · The Met collection

Silk.

The Metropolitan Museum of Art

Collections & archive pieces

1 collections represented · 4 pieces

Modern Museum · 1945

2 pieces · Season not recorded

1945

1 piece · Season not recorded

Letty Lynton (film), 1932

1 piece

About Gilbert Adrian

The Met highlights his strong silhouettes, imaginative themes and sophisticated construction. His Modern Museum collection translated abstract art into carefully inset fabric shapes, while other dresses became surfaces for direct painting.