Fashion Nerds

Jean Paul Gaultier

  • Trompe-l'œil
  • Asymmetric silhouettes

Jean Paul Gaultier used garments to complicate the relationship between coverage and exposure. An asymmetric rayon dress sharply contrasts its long and short sections; a padded sweater dress creates the illusion of a body wearing a bikini.

Official house website
Portrait of Jean Paul Gaultier
Netaction · CC BY-SA 4.0

Five looks to know

Asymmetric layered dress — Jean Paul Gaultier, ca. 1993

Landmark design

Asymmetric layered dress

ca. 1993

The short front and long trailing sides turn a fitted dress into a study in uneven hemlines and layered exposure.

The Metropolitan Museum of Art
Femmes Amazone illusion dress — Jean Paul Gaultier, fall/winter 1995–96

Landmark design

Femmes Amazone illusion dress

Femmes Amazone · fall/winter 1995–96

Graduated dots create the illusion of a bikini-clad body on a padded sweater dress, turning coverage into apparent exposure.

The Metropolitan Museum of Art
Body-outline mesh dress — Jean Paul Gaultier, spring/summer 1996

Landmark design

Body-outline mesh dress

spring/summer 1996

Printed curves draw a second body over the wearer’s own, making transparent nylon mesh a tool for optical illusion.

© The Kyoto Costume Institute, photo by Takashi Hatakeyama
Classical-statue trompe-l’œil dress — Jean Paul Gaultier, spring/summer 1999

Landmark design

Classical-statue trompe-l’œil dress

spring/summer 1999

A printed Hellenic figure makes the clothed body appear simultaneously nude, draped and carved in stone.

The Metropolitan Museum of Art
Madonna’s Blond Ambition cone corset — Jean Paul Gaultier, 1990

Landmark design

Madonna’s Blond Ambition cone corset

1990 · Blond Ambition World Tour stage costume

Conical cups and exposed corsetry turned an undergarment into a commanding pop-performance costume.

Brandon Carson / Wikimedia Commons

Collections & archive pieces

1 collections represented · 2 pieces

ca. 1993

1 piece · Season not recorded

Femmes Amazone · fall/winter 1995–96

1 piece

About Jean Paul Gaultier

These designs demonstrate his use of unexpected proportions and visual deception to make familiar ideas about dressing unstable and playful.