Fashion Nerds

Paul Poiret

  • Art Deco couture
  • Embellished eveningwear

Paul Poiret made bold color, draped form and fashion illustration part of a single creative practice. His early work changed how Paris couture could be cut, worn and presented, well before the 1920s garments in this archive.

Official house website
Portrait of Paul Poiret
Unknown photographer · Public domain

Five looks to know

La Perse coat — Paul Poiret, 1911

Landmark design

La Perse coat

1911

Raoul Dufy’s printed textile works with the coat’s broad surfaces, exemplifying Poiret’s influential collaboration between fashion and modern art.

The Metropolitan Museum of Art
The Thousand and Second Night fancy-dress costume — Paul Poiret, 1911

Landmark design

The Thousand and Second Night fancy-dress costume

1911 — fancy-dress design

Created for Poiret’s famous costume party, the design shows how theatrical dress and staged social events helped establish a couturier’s public identity.

The Metropolitan Museum of Art
Sorbet evening gown — Paul Poiret, 1913

Landmark design

Sorbet evening gown

1913

The hooped, lampshade-like tunic over a narrow skirt produces one of Poiret’s most recognizable silhouettes. This example was worn for a 1913 debutante ball.

Chicago History Museum, ICHi-063292; period illustration courtesy of Smithsonian Libraries
Gold lace evening dress — Paul Poiret, ca. 1925

Collection selection

Gold lace evening dress

ca. 1925

Heavy gold lace and simulated pearls pull the skirt into irregular folds, making ornament an active part of the garment’s shape.

The Metropolitan Museum of Art
Bataille — Paul Poiret, 1925

Landmark design

Bataille

1925

Pleated golden sleeves and a densely decorated column connect Poiret’s later couture to the geometric luxury of the 1925 Art Deco exposition.

The Metropolitan Museum of Art

Archive pieces, grouped by date

2 pieces

ca. 1925

1 piece · Season not recorded

1925

1 piece · Season not recorded

About Paul Poiret

Poiret founded his house in 1903 after working for Doucet and Worth. Draping cloth on the body and using simple geometric shapes offered alternatives to closely fitted tailoring. The Met traces one early mantle to the flat construction of Japanese kimono: a large rectangle of black wool carried Chinese-style embroidery. Naming these sources makes the cross-cultural borrowing visible.

Paul Iribe’s 1908 album and Georges Lepape’s 1911 album helped communicate the color and mood of Poiret’s clothes through illustration. His wife, Denise, was central to their presentation and use. Poiret belongs to a wider move away from corsetry that also involved designers such as Lucile and Vionnet; he did not accomplish it alone.